Any tips to become a better surfer?
I am the last person who should be giving any tips. However, the best tip I have received is to surf with your eyes; look where you want to go and your body will follow.
If Teh could surf with anyone it would be Australian-born American pro-surfer Rob Machado. Jason Childs
Ever been scared in the water?
I experienced the scariest moment of my life when I was surfing at Wollongong South Beach. I tried to paddle into a wave, but chickened out when I noticed how steep it was, and I was caught in no man’s land. My head was held underwater for three waves. This experience kept me out of the water for a couple of months.
Serious injuries or catastrophes?
I have a few scars. My most recent injury occurred in the Maldives. I fell off a wave and bruised my ribs. Sadly, this injury stopped me surfing again on that trip. Anyone who has experienced the same injury knows it takes months to heal.
Favourite surf gear?
I like Hurley boardies, Rip Curl wetsuits and Mrs Palmers wax. I buy FCS fins and accessories.
What’s your view on sharks?
I try not to think about them too much, although when I head out at dawn or dusk, they do cross my mind. The precaution I take is to surf in numbers.
What do you most like about surfing?
Surfing gives me a real sense of relaxation and the ability to be one with nature. For me, it is about embracing the outdoors and clearing my mind. It’s a natural remedy to relieve stress and tension.
What do you think about when you’re sitting out there on your board?
My mind is pretty clear. I truly believe it’s a form of mindfulness. The reality is that when a wave is coming, I’m thinking about when to duck, dive or paddle.
lifeandleisure@afr.com
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