Surf Cat

My wife and I have not had an easy decision to make: Do we send our son to school or should he learn virtually? The one thing that we are convinced of is the importance of learning; the importance of education. In the Presbyterian Church, we often call this “Stewardship of the Mind.”

I’ve joked with friends that education and travel are two things that I’ve never regretted spending money on. Oh, and a good bottle of rum.

From 35 years of surfing, some of the most important lessons I’ve learned have not come from a classroom, but from the ocean. Among them are:

·         The languages of God – silence, energy, beauty and love.

·         The blessedness of a fully expended body.

·         The wonders of energy that makes up waves.

·         Beauty gives hope.

·         Nature matters.

·         The cares of the day pass away like the tides.

·         Slow down and enjoy the moment.

In the last year or two, I have consciously tried to learn while in the water. I’ve asked myself, “What is surfing teaching me in this moment?” I’ve learned:

·         I have a small addiction to adrenaline.

·         I am but a small speck in a great big ocean — so don’t take everything so seriously.

·         My body has limits.

·         Surrender when necessary.

·         Not every wave you ride is going to work out.

·         Sometimes wipeouts are inevitable.

·         Risk should be calculated.

·         I am not the best or the worst.

·         Practice pays off.

·         Grace under pressure is crucial.

·         There are some waves that no one can surf.

·         Sometimes it’s important to sit on the beach and not paddle out.

·         For the best ride, go with the wave.

·         Watch the horizon while also paying attention to the immediate surroundings.

·         Don’t give up when faced with a difficult paddle out.

·         Waves hogs are jerks.

And finally, being out in the ocean also has made me aware that I should:

·         Listen to my breath and control my breathing.

·         Relax when being pummeled by a force too great to resist.

·         Know when to bail out.

·         Paddle like hell when my gut tells me to paddle like hell.

·         Walk through fear and believe in myself.

·         Keep an eye on friends and family so I can help if the need arises.

·         Always listen to my intuition. Always.

·         Cheer for others.

·         Play like a little boy every chance I get — because life is not a dress rehearsal.

Hunter Camp is the pastor of Memorial Presbyterian Church (USA) in St. Augustine.  Visit his blog at lifeandsurfing.blogspot.com. Email him at hcamp@memorialpcusa.org.