Often the same storms that bring us those once-or-twice-in-a-decade swells also wreak havoc on our friends, families, and communities when they make landfall. Such was the case over the weekend in Japan, where Super Typhoon Hagibis devastated a significant portion of the island and sent a number of rarely surfed (or seen) big-wave spots into action.
From a meteorological perspective, here’s what Surfline’s Schaler Perry had to say: “There’s no stretch of ocean that sees more stronger tropical cyclones than the Western Pacific. This area accounts for a third of the tropical activity in a given year and has a season with no bounds (Super Typhoon Wutip in January, for instance). Yet in a tropical basin which is hard to impress, Super Typhoon Hagibis impressed.
“The system began as any other, a lowly tropical depression on Saturday, October 5th, Perry continued. “Over the next 48 hours, Hagibis exploded into a Category 5 Super Typhoon with max sustained winds of 140 knots. With fairly large size (important for tropical swell development), the system tracked towards Japan, sending days of pumping to XL swell, depending on exposure.”
FORECAST: Get the regional surf outlook for Chiba, Japan
Photo: Dane Gillett
Surf photographer/long-time Japan resident Pedro Gomes gave a detailed account of the action: “On Thursday, with the typhoon getting closer and the wind changing from west to north to northeast, the south side of Chiba prefecture was the place to go. With this swell size, all the beachbreaks were closing out. The Katsuura reefs, on the other hand, can handle waves over 15 feet.”
“For sure the biggest waves I’ve ever seen in Chiba,” said Naoto Shibamoto. “I was lucky to get one, and when I did, my mind went blank, just the feeling of ‘go for it’.” Photo: Pedro Gomes
“66-year-old Mr. Misao Tako, the man who first surfed the wave called Shotgun something like 30 years ago, led the charge,” Gomes said. “Early in the morning, all the action had been at Malibu, with some fun waves breaking on the first reef of Katsura bay. Around noon, Tako san noticed waves starting to break on the outer reefs, so he and a few others made the paddle out to the third reef.”
Naoto, post ‘going for it.’ Photo: Pedro Gomes
“[Shotgun] is a challenging wave with a difficult takeoff on the peak,” Gomes said. “It breaks on the shallow reef of Katsuura with deep water all around — a classic slab. The session Thursday didn’t see much opportunity for those who surfed it, but as a spectator swimming next to the waves, I could already feel the energy of the swell.”
Shotgun, October 11. Photo: Pedro Gomes
“The next morning (Friday), the swell was there — but with it came a strong side/offshore wind. Being so far from the shore, it was hard to make a decision if it was going to be working or not. Tako san, together with local surfers Shunsuke Ezawa and Naoto Shibamoto, took a JetSki out for a closer look. After watching the waves for 30 minutes, the trio decided it was worth a go and called the rest of the group out. During the session, we had JetSkis operated by Shunske Ezawa and Mr. Kamata giving support to the surfers.”
And Ezawa summed it up: “it was insane. I’ve never seen anything like that in my life.”
SPOT CHECK: Olympic venue Shidashita Beach, Japan
Shotgun, October 10. Photo: Pedro Gomes
“Once we got to the outside, we could see the waves breaking like none of us had ever seen before, getting bigger and bigger with every set,” Gomes said. “If on Thursday our concern was lack of consistency, by Friday the only focus was trying not to get caught inside by the sets.”
Undisclosed — not in Chiba — and way bigger than it looks. Photo: Kohl Christensen
“As a professional surf photographer with many years shooting in Hawaii, I can say I’ve never seen anything like that in my life,” Gomes said. “The waves that day were just insane. I moved to Chiba three years ago and have being hearing stories about this wave ever since. I was stoked to finally photograph it — and can say that the potential of this spot is amazing.”
MORE JAPAN: Gathering forecast intel on Shidashita Beach with Surfline’s Kurt Korte
Swell Signature
Storm Location and Track: Northerly track from Northern Mariana Islands towards Japan starting October 7th.
Storm Wind: Super Typhoon for 72+ hours.
Storm Seas: Satellite confirmed seas of 40 feet+ (modeled seas 50 feet+).
Swell Travel Time to Japan: One-three days.
Photo: Dane Gillett
Dane Gillett gave a similar report: “The swell from Typhoon Hagibis began building on October 9th. By the 10th, it was closing out all the exposed beachbreaks — this is when the reefs in the bays of Katsuura began to light up. The morning was super low tide, so fast, hollow waves on the main reef at Malibu were on offer at first light. By mid-morning, wash-through sets appeared on Second Reef, which is where many of the big-wave riders headed.”
Shun Murakami at Shitashita (2020 Olympic venue) October 8th, as the first signs of swell started filtering in. Photo: Pedro Gomes
“Just before lunchtime, some of the local crew turned up with JetSkis and some well-known pros in tow to tackle the legendary wave Shotgun,” said Gillett. “What followed was an amazing session.”
“I’ve being checking this spot for over 10 years,” said local surfer Tomoyuki Onozuka. “Today was definitely the biggest day I’ve ever seen. It was good to have all of us together. I think we can push our limits like a team from now.”
Misao Tako, October 11. Photo: Pedro Gomes
“It was big, like I’ve never seen before,” said Misao Tako. “Unfortunately, the wind was so strong that it made the conditions very tough. Still, it’s in these kind of conditions that we should try it, because it doesn’t happen very often. When we have a chance, we need to go. I am 66 years old and I don’t have plan to retire from surfing big waves.” Photo: Pedro Gomes
“Japanese society has warmed up to big-wave surf culture a lot over the last few years,” said Gomes. “But there are still many barriers to be broken. For instance, during typhoon swells the coastal police are very strict in not allowing people to get in the water during the peak of the storms/swells. In addition, many of the fishing communities in coastal Japan are very traditional and are hesitant to allow surfing in certain spots and under extreme conditions.”
FORECAST: Keep an eye on surfing’s first Olympic venue, Shidashita Beach
“Japan has a lot of potential as a big-wave surfing location,” Gomes said. “After 18 years living here, I’ve seen potential waves to explore all over the country. Certain cultural barriers are still here, but if these make it harder to surf or to shoot, they also make it more special when it does happen. I see a good future for Japan as a surf nation, and I can’t wait for the next big swell.”
Photo: Dane Gillett
Relief efforts are currently underway for what is being called the most destructive storm to impact Japan in decades. At the time of publication there have been over 30 confirmed deaths and dozens more reported missing. Information on how to assist in relief efforts will be updated when available. Our thoughts go out to the nation of Japan and to all those affected.
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