There’s a wave from that giant, windblown first day of the Jaws comp a few months back that’s etched into my brain as one of the technically heaviest things I’ve ever seen in big-wave surfing.
Not long after three-time event winner Billy Kemper pulled into a beast, Grant “Twiggy” Baker committed on a deep one — maybe 50-feet on the face — that totally bottomed-out, causing Twig to recorrect, STALL, and somehow set a line inside of Death itself. Like Billy’s wave before his, Twig didn’t make it out of his; he actually got hit so hard that he got “blood on the lungs,” [read on to know what that is] but after a quick check-up, he paddled back out. In short, the WSL Big Wave Tour guys are a different breed, and Twiggy — now, a three-time BWT World Champ) is a different breed within that breed. Surfline sat down with the South African, who graciously let us into that world.
Surfline: So, Grant, Big #3! How’s that feel, and does the feeling get better with each title?
Grant “Twiggy” Baker: It seems hard to believe that I’ve won three and I’m thinking it can’t be all that hard to do, because I’m really not the best surfer out there [laughs]. No, I’m seriously proud of this one, and it’s actually three in six years, all in my forties, and that’s probably something that is abnormal in a sport like surfing, which is usually dominated by youngsters. But I’ve worked hard at my mental and physical conditioning and feel like I’m surfing better than ever, so it’s a reward for all the hard work. It’s tough being on the road and away from home for six months, and it seems to get a little harder each year, especially now with my little girl being three years old. Kate and Billi were with me for four of the six months, but even a few weeks away from them at this stage of [my daughter’s] life is hard. You don’t want to miss a single day. But they have been amazing — supporting my dream and stepping out of their comfort zone to be with me and sacrifice a “normal” life. None of this would be possible without their support.
Cortes Bank. Photo: Are Frapwell
Growing up in South Africa, what’s that road been like for you?
It would seem impossible to someone from South Africa right now. The tour is set up to be dominated by Northern Hemisphere surfers, where you can spend the winter at home, surrounded by your support group and surfing the events at your local spots. Compared to someone from the Southern Hemisphere the personal sacrifices are almost insurmountable, and the amount of time, effort and money it takes is overwhelming at times. We have some of the best big-wave surfers in the world in South Africa, though — guys like Matt Bromley, Josh Redman, James Lowe and Frank Solomon — and unfortunately, they will never get the opportunity to show what they can do on a regular basis because of financial constraints. And that’s a shame. I’m fortunate to have picked up some international support over the years, and this makes a world of difference. Without Vissla, Isurus, BOS, Poison City, F-One, Ridge Wallets, Slyde Handboards, Hurricane and Futures, I’d also be one of those South Africans stuck at home, and this is true of guys from Peru, Chile, Mexico, Tahiti, Fiji and most of the Southern Hemisphere countries with a big-wave culture. I sure as shit wouldn’t be three-times World Champ if a few of them had had the opportunity to compete!
How will you celebrate?
I’m busy flying home as we speak, and the feeling of happiness and relief to be almost back in South Africa is tangible. I’m going home to hug my baby girl, kiss my wife and celebrate with them by spending the next week at home soaking up the love that comes with an amazing new family.
Recent Mav’s drop. Photo: Fred Pompermayer
Only two events ran this year, but do you have a favorite one on the schedule?
Maverick’s is my favorite event for sure, even though I haven’t gotten to compete there since 2013, and I’m itching to test myself in the bowl against this new breed of incredibly gifted big-wave surfers. The five guys behind me on the tour this year (Billy, Kai, Lucas, Natxo, Albee) are almost WCT-level surfers, and it would give me so much joy to go head to head with them in 20-foot double ups in the Maverick’s bowl. I just hope I’m still fighting fit when that day comes!
How about equipment among the big-wave guys, what’s trending in 2019?
Basic trends are back to thrusters, lighter and less volume, which all add up to more control. But phew, so much has changed in the last two to three years, and if you’re not on top of your equipment you won’t stand a chance against the new crew. I design all my own boards and send those out to my shapers around the world. I’ve got a shaper in each territory, and those guys take my file as a basic framework before adding in their expertise. Bushman does my boards in Hawaii. Dan Keggie and the Hurricane guys in South Africa, Chris Christenson and Paul Naude in California. I’ve got the Pukas guys over in Europe. Ryan Von Dresselt in Australia and Rodolpho Klimax in South America. It’s this amazing, fluid partnership with all these shapers and all this knowledge that’s coming through each of the boards. Then I’m the test-pilot. I go out and ride these boards all the time, testing and trying to improve on them, adapting the files after almost every major session.
Nazare. Photo: Masurel/WSL
Is Nazare as frightening as it looks? Or rather, which wave on tour is the most frightening and why?
Nazare is frightening to be sure, but each wave has its challenges and it’s hard to pick out one as the scariest. Taking off on the north peak and committing to pulling into the west bowl at Pe’ahi is very intimidating, not to mention how steep and formidable the takeoff at Maverick’s is… that’s a brain f**k for sure. But yes, the fact that Nazare is a beachbreak and you can never be sure of when you’re going to get smoked is tough. It takes a great deal of mental preparation to be ready to tackle that monster.
If you could add any wave(s) to the BWT, which would you vote for?
I believe bringing back the Southern Hemisphere events should be a priority right now, and my vote would be for Dungeons, Puerto Escondido and either Cloudbreak or Nias. Big, barreling waves where we can push the sport to a new level with every event. I feel that the experiment with reducing the tour hasn’t worked out, and we are now left with one or two events running, if we’re lucky. We need six events on tour so we’re guaranteed to run three in epic conditions. Rather than having three, running one or two, and then trying to force a third, or not running it at all. The surfers are working incredibly hard to improve themselves and promote the sport, and because of this, performance levels are at an all-time high, while the overall perception of big waves has grown, in both endemic and more importantly non-endemic cultures while maintaining surfing’s core roots. It’s poised for big things and I’m hopeful for the future. Unless wave pools make us extinct [laughs].
Jaws. Photo: Zak Noyle
Do you have any personal rivalries with anyone? Or anyone you know that’s gunning for you or has your number?
I’m sure most of the guys would love to beat me and see me disappear [laughs], but I’ve never really felt any true rivalries on tour in the past. Saying that, these new guys are hungry. And the format without priority plays into the hands of the person who is ready to hassle and fight the most and basically paddle on your inside 10 waves in a row if you let them [laughs]. This year was intense, and instead of sitting back and letting them have it, I made a mental note to fight back and not give an inch, and it seemed to rattle them a little. Lucas is the hardest fighter. We had a couple of epic paddle battles and it felt good to beat him in both heats we had together. Saying this, in order for the sport to grow and performance levels to be raised we need a priority rule. Too often we are pushed too deep or waves are missed because we’re fighting amongst ourselves, and if we’re given the opportunity to sit where we want and take the waves we choose from the perfect position, the sport will go to a whole new stratosphere.
What’s your personal life like? Any side projects, or does life revolve solely around chasing big swells and the tour?
My personal life is a bit of a mess right now after being away from home for so long [laughs]. I’ve got much to catch up on and a few of my external business ventures need some attention. But my focus is and always has been to surf as much as possible in the biggest, best waves I can find, and I don’t believe that will ever change. I’m a surfer to the core and I love and appreciate that I get to surf for a living at this stage of my life.
Nazare Podium. Photo: Masurel/WSL
After that crazy one you pulled into on the first day of the Jaws event, you talked about “blood on the lungs from impact.” What the hell does that mean?
Most of us big-wave guys have experienced it. The impact of the wipeout causes some blood vessels in your lungs to burst, and they fill up with blood. You cough and splutter up blood for a few minutes and then it slowly goes away and you have what feels like “heavy” lungs for a few days afterwards. I don’t think it’s very serious, as I’ve had it a couple times and feel fine after a week or so with no side effects. The guys on the medical boat weren’t as convinced, however, and didn’t want to let me go back out and finish my heat. Let’s just say there was a bit of a tug of war for my board, but I eventually jumped back in the water and paddled back out [laughs].
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