Surf Cat

It seems that everyone involved in any way with surfing these days is on a mission to make sure no one gets skunked, anywhere, ever again. The WSL, the IOC, every wave pool technician on Earth, and yes, Surfline, too — all conspiring to crack the uncrackable code of ocean plus atmosphere plus daylight plus calendar…And eliminate Murphy’s Law once and for all. At least that is what it’s felt like in Hawaii this winter.

Regardless of whether it’s due to smart scheduling, Surfline’s ace forecast team or dumb luck, every contest — from Vans Triple Crown jewels Haleiwa and Sunset and the Women’s CT at Honolua Bay to the Pipe Invitational and on through the currently pumping Billabong Pipe Masters — has somehow summoned exceptional surf. And the marquee paddle event on the significantly restructured WSL Big Wave Tour, the cbdMD Jaws Big Wave Championships, was no different.

Photo: Keoki/WSL

Pe’ahi put out today, which is to say, it was 30-50-foot and perfect. Tradewinds were practically nonexistent early on. And with a medical boat, a medical transfer boat, a boat marshall boat, a helicopter, a dozen or so PWCs and a dual-zone traffic system, this event couldn’t be any safer with a rescue submarine. And short of inserting teleportation devices into their competitors’ inflation vests, the League’s spared no expense in protecting their commodities.

Makua Rothman. Photo: Miers/WSL

Massive barrels were on the menu from the start. Russell Bierke immediately went excellent, double 8.33, before Kaipo even had time to explain the day. But before anyone could get too comfortable, Jamie Mitchell went and catapulted himself into certain oblivion before guardian angel Abe Lerner came to his rescue. The middle-aged ironman never really did get back in the game, taking doughnuts on his second attempt. “It’s butter,” Jaws pioneer Dave Kalama explained, “as user-friendly as it gets here. But to quote Mike Tyson, ‘Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the mouth.’ I cannot believe how strong you have to be to take a wipeout like that… and then paddle back out for another.”

Jamie Mitchell. Photo: Miers/WSL

Relative newcomer Eli Olson, while not technically barreled, looked beyond comfortable in the pit with the spit, and his two-wave total actually bumped him slightly ahead of Bierke, with Makua Rothman lassoing the third advancing spot. “It’s beautiful, and terrifying as always,” Olson said astutely. “I think it’s almost as big as you can paddle.”

Eli Olson. Photo: Miers/WSL

Nic von Rupp was the first to go left today, rather insalubriously, especially once Kai Lenny reset the scale for deep at Pe’ahi Proper. He didn’t make it, but the effort was enough to put Lenny in the lead and keep him there, with Ian Walsh and von Rupp scooting through in 2nd and 3rd, respectively.

A multi-megaton lip drove backhander Tom Lowe straight through his surfboard to kick off Heat 3. Albee Layer wore a behemoth on his head, too, before Greg Long threaded a cavern only to get bucked upon exit. Finally back home from an outstanding Triple Crown campaign, three-time Jaws champ Billy Kemper promptly put himself in an advancing position before Nic Lamb leapfrogged him. But Nathan Florence waited for a true set, styling out a double 7.17 for an easy win.

Things got dark from there. Glorious barrels went unridden as the tradewinds arrived in a big way. Surfing with a wrapped ankle, Torrey Meister went full yard-sale over the falls, took some serious gas, then thrashed himself repeatedly en route to the hardest-fought advancement seen on any tour for a minute. If there isn’t some kind of commitment award, there should be, because Torrey deserves something other than an ice bath and a couple Advil for that brand of masochism. Meanwhile, Lucas “Chumbo” Chianca backhanded a bomb, maneuvered around the high line and asserted himself to the top.

Lucas Chianca. Photo: Koeki/WSL

The Semis began on an even uglier note. Tuberides were out, daredevil shit was in. Guys survived the airdrops only to get smoked by cascading lips and stampeding whitewater. Kai Lenny pushed ahead of the pack, but it didn’t come as easy as it has in events past — more piecework this time around. Makua grabbed a true Jaws monster to stay in the mix, while Ian tactfully surfed his way to the channel to make yet another Jaws Final.

Ian Walsh. Photo: Miers/WSL

In the second Semi, Nic Lamb caught an interference (yeah, interferences are also a thing here) to effectively remove himself from the equation. Multiple surfboards were destroyed. Not Chumbo’s, though. He merely went about his love affair with the tradewinds, managing a miraculous double 8.4. “I like the airdrops,” he giggled. Kemper bagged his own double-seven to continue his storybook campaign before Nathan Florence knifed a legit tuberide to vault his opponents and join four other Hawaiians in the Final. “Getting barreled at Jaws is probably the scariest, sickest feeling ever,” Florence said. “My first wave I tomahawked on the face, so I was a little worried [laughs].”

Nathan Florence. Photo: Miers/WSL

The Women? Well, Felicity Palmateer was the first to answer the call, grab-angling twice to the trough for an all-but-guaranteed Finals berth. Local heroine Paige Alms almost went, too, but opted out instead, got caught by the next wave, sucked over, held down, swamped off the ski… Jesus. Then KK tried, got bucked. Then she tried again, got mauled. Then she bailed for a five-story fall right off the edge of the Earth. KK advanced. More importantly, she survived.

KK. Photo: WSL

The second Semi wasn’t exactly tradecraft, either. Basically, Emily Erickson, Michaela Fregonese and Annie Reichert all got to their feet and lived to surf another heat. Twenty minutes into the Final, Paige picked a gem, made it to the bottom, got a score. Felicity followed suit, on her backhand, before Annie, Emi and KK cleared out their cobwebs. Annie and KK then upped the ante by successfully riding smaller waves to the channel. But the two-time BWT World Champ would not be denied.

Paige Alms. Photo: Keoki/WSL

Three minutes into the hour-long Men’s Final, Billy found his best wave of the comp, a triumphant 30-foot cathedral worth double 7.83. Kai went full Cutback Guy to stay relevant. Nathan looked beyond cozy in the pocket of a colossus. And Ian resisted at least three sketchy situations on a single bomb to breathe down Billy’s neck. All four got their backup waves before Makua or Chumbo even got on the board. Once they did, Billy had become a force of nature. Unstoppable. The Maui surfer is now — officially, professionally, on paper, wherever — the best competitive athlete in the history of Pe’ahi. And you thought he was confident before.

Billy Kemper. Photo: Miers/WSL

“This is my backyard,” he explained, “and I’m very territorial.”

At this rate, if the Eddie ends up going at Waimea Bay, Billy Kemper will probably win it.